Japan has regional ramen styles the way France has wine regions โ each city has strong opinions about what constitutes the real thing, and Sapporo will tell you with complete confidence that miso ramen originated here, in Hokkaido, in the cold north where you need something substantial to get through a winter.
The distinguishing characteristics: pork and chicken broth, a miso tare stirred in at service, corn, butter, and usually a chashu pork belly that has been braised until it surrenders. It's a project, not a weeknight dish. But ramen made properly from scratch is one of the great cooking experiences.
The one useful piece of kit: A large stockpot (8L+) makes the difference between a concentrated broth and a watery one. You need volume to develop the depth. We also use a fine mesh strainer to get the broth completely clear โ not essential but satisfying.
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Ingredients
The broth
The miso tare & finish
Classic toppings
Method
Blanch the bones
Cover pork bones in cold water, bring to boil, cook 5 minutes. Drain and rinse thoroughly under cold water. This removes impurities and keeps your broth clear. Don't skip it.
Build the broth
Add blanched bones, chicken carcass, kombu, shiitake, ginger, garlic, and spring onions to your stockpot. Cover with 3.5 litres cold water. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce to a bare simmer. Skim regularly for the first 30 minutes.
Simmer low and long
3โ4 hours at a very gentle simmer. The broth should reduce by roughly a third. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Taste โ it should be rich and deeply savoury. Season lightly with salt at this point.
Make the miso tare
Whisk both misos with sake, mirin, and sesame paste in a bowl. This is your tare โ the concentrated flavour paste added at service, not during cooking. Never boil the miso (it kills the live cultures and dulls the flavour).
Cook noodles, assemble bowls
Cook fresh ramen noodles per packet โ usually 2โ3 minutes. Place 2 tbsp of tare in each warm bowl. Ladle hot broth over (the heat blooms the miso). Add noodles. Add a teaspoon of butter (it melts into the surface โ this is correct and correct). Arrange toppings.
Eat immediately and loudly
Ramen is eaten hot and fast. Slurping is not rude โ it cools the noodles and is considered appreciative. Eat before the noodles soak up the broth and go soft. The broth is the point.
Going to Japan?
Sapporo in winter is extraordinary. The Snow Festival, the seafood market at dawn, and ramen culture that treats a bowl of noodles with the same seriousness as a three-Michelin-star meal. Tokyo is essential too โ Shinjuku's ramen street for late nights.